Monday, August 21, 2017

Sewing wardrobe staples... the Tessuti Kate Top x 3... Summer of Basics

It is interesting how my sewing has changed over time. Only a few years ago, most of my sewing was pieces for special occasions and fancy showstopper wardrobe pieces. I still have and love most of these pieces. For example, my Missoni Sweater Coat, Striped Lisbon Cardigan and Asymmetric Wool Blazer get pulled out a few times each season. However, one can't wear these items too often, they're just too distinctive.

I haven't always thought it was worth my time to spend a lot of effort on basics, but the act of making beautiful basics has grown on me lately. There is a certain pleasure to making and wearing a simple, beautiful pieces that fit well and are made with quality materials with thoughtful details.

I find it harder to blog these quiet makes that I wear everyday. It seems much more exciting to post something eye-catching, made with a complex pattern and and exotic print. But I enjoy reading other people's posts on basics, so I should really be better about it. I've enjoyed reading the Summer of Basics posts by Fringe Association and their partners, and all of the other bloggers and instagrammers who have joined in to #summerofbasics . I think it is a much needed acknowledgement that simple, lovely basics are just as worthy of notice as the other creative projects we engage in. Perhaps more important!

On that note, my next few posts will be devoted to showing some of the wardrobe basics I've been sewing up this summer.

There are lots of woven tank patterns to choose from, but the one I've latched onto is the Tessuti Kate. I have a definite soft spot for Tessuti patterns. I love how they almost assume you are going to sew them up in linen or something similar, and in this day and age, I feel like a hand-drawn pattern is gutsy and cool. I've talked about the pattern quite a bit in this post, so I'll leave out the gritty details.

I made these three Kates in June, and they have been in heavy rotation ever since. The are all in linen from Emmaonesock, and the floral and denim were discounted roll-ends. The floral one doesn't get worn as much, it is almost too pretty for daily wear in my current rather minimal aesthetic, but the striped linen and the denim-y linen are what I've been living in.

I've modified the Kate slightly. I always make the view with the higher neckline, I just prefer this look right now. I skip the back closure-- while it is lovely, I don't need it, and if I have a button there, it just gets tangled up in my hair. I always add about an inch of length. The striped and the floral tops have been made more "swing-y" by grading out a size from under the arm to the hem, while the denim-y linen one keeps the original boxy shape. I really like the look of this silhouette but on certain days this just feels a bit too close on my belly.

The mitered side vent is a lovely detail on the Kate, and I love having this as an option, but I frequently improvise other hems. On the floral one, I cut the hem totally straight and did a narrow hem (to conserve fabric!). The striped one keeps the vent and mitered corners.

The denim-y one has a hi-lo hem, which was sort of an accident. I lengthened the top by two inches instead of one, which for some reason I thought would be a good idea, but after wearing it I realized that it was hitting my body at an awkward place. So I belatedly hemmed the front up higher than the back. 

The roll end that I made the floral linen top out of was not quite a yard. I probably should have passed on this, since I knew the pieces wouldn't fit, but it was such a lovely print that I wouldn't have bought if it wasn't on sale. To make it work, I ended up cutting a strip off-grain and adding it to the center back. 

I'm wearing the striped linen Kate right now! Dear readers, what are your favorite tops for summer? Do you have a TNT pattern or a favorite store-bought option?

Monday, August 7, 2017

Jumping on the shirt dress bandwagon! Kalle Shirt Dress by Closet Case Patterns, a Pattern Review

Heather from Closet Case Files has done it again. She manages to look effortless and put together, then produce patterns so that the rest of us can aspire to such easy coolness. And somehow it works, at least for me. 

This is, of course the Kalle Shirt Dress from Closet Case Patterns.

It all started with those pics of Heather in her self-drafted white shirt dress in Barcelona. I don't know if it was the early morning light or just Heather herself, but she just looked stunning.

Then, Closet Case Patterns released the Kalle shirt dress pattern. Initially, I was skeptical... there isn't a single shapeless dress in my closet, I tend toward body-skimming sheaths and dresses that are fitted over the bust. That is, if I wear dresses at all... with my post-baby body I've tended to prefer pants and top combos that provide support and definition. I also worried that the curvy hem would show a bit too much leg for my taste.

However, summer got hot and the thought of a breezy relaxed fit linen dress got really tempting. Also, I've had a bit more time to workout this summer so my belly isn't as annoyingly prominent. All of this added up to the Kalle jumping to the front of the sewing queue right before our annual summer vacation.

I used my favorite mid-weight linen from in Vineyard Green. I am totally crushing on this color right now. This could also be partially Heather's fault... this color is quite close to one of Heather's samples, although I swear I started loving this color before the Kalle even came out. I've never really been a fan of green before, but now I can't get enough of earthy greens-- a touch spring-y or olive-y or army-y. There are several more items in my sewing queue that are these colors, I think it is my new neutral.

I sewed it almost exactly as written. The only alteration I made was to shorten by 2 inches because I'm 5'4" and the pattern is drafted for a 5'6" woman.

The directions were, as usual, spot on, and the sew-along posts for the placket and the yoke were brilliant. I have actually sewed yokes and plackets before so I'm not a total newbie, but I enjoyed being led through the process and I think even a beginner could figure it out with the help of the sew-along.

The three methods of making collar points were totally interesting to read about. I tried the thread-pull method of making collar points and it worked a charm.

I tested a few different interfacings on scraps of my fabric, and decided to go with my usual favorite, Fashion Sewing Supply's Pro-sheer Elegance Medium. I have some genuine shirt interfacing that I was itching to use, but this was too stiff for a relaxed linen shirt.

To add a bit of fun, I did the under collar and inner yoke in an Alexander Henry quilting cotton that I had in my stash. Oddly enough, it is the same fabric I used on my Ginger Jeans. The label one of my new self-made inkjet printed labels (heat set pigment ink) on cotton twill.

My Janome gave its usual lackluster performance on the buttonholes. That is to say, they went perfectly except when they did not. For no conceivable reason, the Janome 8077 sometimes decides to stop after sewing 2/8 of an inch of the buttonhole. If it is going to stop, it always stops at this point. It will not restart, and trying to sew over the existing stitches has only resulted in a bigger mess. I have to stop, unpick the stitches, and start over, and it usually does just fine the second time around. The only time I don't have a problem is if the fabric is a totally smooth weave like a twill or a quilting cotton. Apparently a nicely ironed linen did not trick the machine into buttonhole perfection. This time I had to unpick three false starts-- annoying. I really don't understand why my machine is so darn fussy.

The top buttonhole was a bit of a trick... I ended up using a scrap of heavy interfacing just laid under the offending area, then just tearing it out of the seam when I was done. I really need to get some of the dissolving stabilizer, it would be easier to remove.

I used buttons harnessed from a repurposed men's shirt, plastic but nice quality.

The pocket went wonky the first time around, so I cut another and interfaced just the top of it. It went in much neater this way, and hopefully won't get saggy.

I added side seam pockets. The dress definitely had cleaner lines without pockets, but I really like having somewhere to put my hands (and my phone). I just borrowed the pocket from another pattern that was handy-- it just happens to be the Suki Kimono by Helen's Closet.

Love the curved hem. I slightly stretched the bias tape as I applied it, a trick I learned from sewing Tessuti patterns, which often use bias finish.

This was the perfect dress for a beach vacation. I wore it on outings to town, as well as on the beach. I'm planning on wearing it well into the fall, with leggings and a cardigan. The linen does wrinkle quite a bit, but for beach wear it just added to the casual vibe, and we'll just have to see how I feel about it at work.

I love it so much that I have more versions planned... I'm planning another Kalle dress in black bamboo twill, which I think will give it a lovely drape, and possibly the tunic version in white linen.

The bathing suit is new also, Jalie 3350, I might blog it in a future post. Styled with Born shoes (old), Missoni sunglasses, and Mac Half and Half lipstick.

Wednesday, June 14, 2017

Beausoleil Top by ITS Patterns

I have finally made a cold shoulder top! I've been on the lookout for just the right pattern, and when Kennis asked for testers for her new cold shoulder design, I jumped right in. 

There just aren't that many options for cold shoulder tops in a woven that have appealed to me. I was looking for just the right amount of shoulder and a nice clean finish, and Kennis's design really captures this. The Beausoleil has views for a top or a dress, and obviously, I chose to make the top. 

I've tested for ITS before, and Kennis's patterns are usually right on point for me. This was no exception! I don't fit cleanly in the size range in this top, so I did a size 12 A cup bust, a 14 waist, and a 16 hip, but grading between the sizes was fairly straightforward. 

The only problem I had with fitting is in the back, where I did a sway back adjustment to allow the top to lay nicely along my spine. As is my habit with any new pattern for a woven, I made a muslin, and I basically pinched and basted the back vertical seam until it laid naturally on my body, then transferred the new curve to my pattern piece. Apparently my back has quite a curve, since this is one of the most common adjustments that I make. 

Once I had the swayback under control, I could really enjoy the way the fit of the top skims over the body. It is really a nice balance between shaped and flowing. I might make the dress view of the pattern just to take advantage of the beautiful shape!

For my final version I decided to use a lovely silk from my 2014 trip to Rome. This silk has a matte finish and a bit of weight to the drape. 

The pattern has a lapped back zip. I *might* have made one of these a loooong time ago! I found Kennis's instructions to be quite reasonable, and her photo tutorial was very helpful in clarifying the process. The facings worked out beautifully! I did encounter the dreaded bubble at the bottom of the zip... so I ended up ripping the bottom seam and re-sewing it in by hand. But after this minor snafu it lays quite nicely. 

However, the secret truth is.... I don't need the zip to get in and out of the top, which was true for many of the testers! If you choose to go the route of omitting the zip, it would be wise to test this out with your muslin (or some strategic basting) before making a dreadful mistake! Or, perhaps you want the challenge of the lapped zip... it does offer a nice vintage touch. Not to mention the convenience of slipping your top/dress over your perfectly coiffed hair...! 

One of the things I truly love about this pattern is the all-in-one facing. It gives the top a lovely polished look without the inconvenience of separate facings flipping out all over the place! However, (note to self!) I think I would trim just a *hare* off of the facing piece next time to help it stay invisible on the inside. 

Perhaps you can make out from these pictures that the sleeves are finished with a 1-inch cuff. This makes for an easy, clean finish. Another nice touch.

Can you tell, I really love this top! As usual, I'm planning out all of the wonderful possibilities of future versions. I think I need one in black crepe silk, and I also suspect this pattern would be perfect for a stable knit like a ponte. I'm also curious how the top would look if I widened the cut-out just a bit more. I might also try replacing the cuff with a narrower bias band for a slightly more delicate look. It would also be lovely in a simple linen or cotton as a casual summer top. 

Friday, May 19, 2017

Burberry Inspired Trench: McCalls 5525

One big wardrobe hole has been the complete lack of a light spring/fall coat. I've been making do with cardigans or blazers until it's cold enough to huddle under a wool coat. I considered using one of my already adjusted patterns and making it in a twill or very light coating weight fabric, but really the classic thing to fill this space in the wardrobe would be a trench coat. 

If I look grumpy in these pics, it isn't about the trench. Apparently this location is popular with the Pokemon crowd, and the current pair are deep in conversation about their concealed carry permits. Grrrrr.....!
Once I decided that it had to be a trench coat, I went about figuring out what really makes a trench coat a trench coat. The internet was quite happy to supply information about the trench's military origins, and how Burberry and Aquascatum created the first waterproof versions. 

For my first trench, I decided to go totally traditional. Khaki, double-breasted, plaid-lined. All-the-way on the details... epaulettes, storm flaps, self-fabric belt, wrist straps, button pockets, etc. I also decided that I wanted a very traditional fit... not the skin-tight fit that seems to be very fashionable in women's trenches right now, and not the billowing oversized look from the 80s.

As I sorted through the available patterns, I had my usual problem... none of them was quite right for my vision of the classic trench. I definitely prefer indie patterns, and there are a number of attractive indie trench patterns. For example, the Named trench, which is absolutely lovely, has a more relaxed fit. The Sewaholic Robson strikes me as very feminine, with rounded lapels and no separate collar stand. The Deer and Doe Luzerne has a waist seam so it almost looks skirted, just adorable. The designers have each done a lovely job of making the trench their own... but I want a BORING, basic trench pattern!

Patternreview turned up with the answer... McCalls 5525, which has an astounding 69 reviews. This might not be remarkable for a dress pattern, but for a relatively complicated coat pattern, this seems to be quite a number. It is almost perfect. Double-breasted, princess seamed, separate collar stand, and all the trench details. There was the small detail of the pattern being out-of-print, but I was able to turn up a copy on Ebay with relative ease. 

Trying out the back tie look.

After the issue of pattern choice was settled, then I had to find the perfect fabric. Traditionally, the trench is made of "showerproof" cotton gabardine. Supposedly this magical gabardine is woven so tightly that it repels rain. Burberry has said that they use waxed cotton thread to produce their proprietary gabardine fabric, increasing its water-repellency. Well, there is NOTHING on the US market that even tries to fit these claims. I only ended up with one sample of cotton gabardine in my search, and this sample was totally unremarkable. 

I considered using some other kind of water-repellent fabric... but these plastic-based coated or membrane based fabrics don't really seem true to the idea of a classic trench. I'm also highly suspicious of the supposed "showerproof" fabrics available on the fashion fabric marketplace-- they rarely come with any details on what exactly creates the water-repellancy, and I definitely don't want a coat that will be damp from the inside out. I am tempted to make a Gore Tex trench just to prove it can be done, but I don't imagine this will be a pleasant exercise, and it definitely doesn't fit the stated goal of the "classic" trench.

Alas, I ended up settling on cotton twill. I ordered samples from anyone who had anything in a proper khaki cotton, and ended up with one from Mood. As of now, they still have it. No, they don't pay me anything!

As for the twill... it is okay. It sewed up nicely, it is a nice mid-weight. One side is a plain weave, the other had a longer weave... I used the plain weave side. I actually had a bit of a panic when cutting my fabric that I'd chosen the back side of the fabric, but it turned out fine, and I was careful to keep the same face consistently throughout the project. I had to be very careful to use a press cloth or keep the temperature of the iron down, there are a couple of little places where I forgot where the surface of the fabric is a bit damaged. Honestly I couldn't even find them to take a picture, so probably not worth worrying over.

In terms of fit, I think I misjudged the amount of ease in the pattern-- I usually expect Big 4 patterns to include MASSIVE amounts of ease. However, I think the ease on this one is actually quite reasonable, as I should have guessed from reading the reviews-- so I actually ended up adding quite a bit to my chosen size 16. The shoulders fit beautifully, but I ended up making just about everything else a bit larger. The 16 is, unfortunately, the largest of the smaller sizes, so I just had to guess what the grade to the 18 hip would have been.  I deepened the armholes a bit, and added .5 inches to the side seams, increasing out to 1 inch at the hips. When I sewed it up in my fabric, things still ended up being a bit tighter than I wanted, so I decreased the seam allowances to .25 in the center back and at the side seams. 

I did end up making quite a few changes. The biggest change was converting the sleeves to a two-piece sleeve. I used the an article from Threads magazine to make the change, in addition to comparing my altered sleeve to some other two piece sleeves from coats in my pattern collection. A two piece sleeve just makes sense to me-- our arms are not straight cylinders! The sleeves are set in like a traditional coat sleeve with a sleeve head (I used a piece of poly fleece this time, since I wanted to make sure it wouldn't shrink). I did not put in a shoulder pad... a very slim one would probably be a good idea and further help the shoulder hold its shape, but I didn't bother.

I also redrafted the back storm flap to be longer and have a bit more volume. I re-drew the front storm flap piece so that the storm flaps would meet under the arms, and I made two front storm flaps for symmetry. The storm flaps are sewn together at the shoulders and the underarm seam, and are only joined to the coat at the neck and armhole, supposedly offering another layer of storm protection.

The belt is channel stitched, and has the classic trench D-rings. Supposedly they weren't actually for grenades, as is usually suggested, but for the more practical purpose of carrying map-cases and canteens. They also serve to hold the belt in place!

I made a full epaulette with a carrier, rather than a half-epaulette that is sewn into the shoulder seam. I simply doubled the length of the McCalls 5525 pattern piece. I also made the wrist strap a full wrap-around strap with carriers and a buckle, rather than a half-strap sewn into a seam. To make the full wrist strap, I just used the McCalls 5525 pattern piece, which reviewers note is notoriously long for its intended purpose. These little details just seem a bit more authentic to me.

Are these buckles on backwards? I think they are... 

One thing that I did not notice until the coat was nearly done was that the collar on the pattern does not button all the way up. There are three pairs of buttons that hold the double breasted coat closed over the midsection, and that is it. My practical nature rebels against this... why make a coat with storm flaps if you can't actually button the collar up under the storm flap? Fashionable ladies, those storm flaps are just for decoration, apparently. I made mine button all the way up, with a full complement of 12 buttons. 

However, the fact that I didn't realize this until late in the game shows that I really should have paid more attention to button placement on my muslin. I have the bad habit of winging such details... it always seems like I end up changing button placements to suit my body, so I hardly ever look at the suggested ones. For example, when deciding on the placement of buttons, I very carefully avoided having a pair in horizontal alignment across the most prominent part of the chest. If you know what I mean...

I also narrowed the lapel just slightly, which, in retrospect, definitely contributed to my button problems! I also made the lapels and the collar less rounded than is drafted in the pattern, I think the soft point is a more classic look.

So, months into the project when I actually decided to figure out button placement, I discovered that if I put the buttons where they needed to go to achieve a good seal around the neck, the coat was dramatically too tight over the chest. It looked like I needed a giant full-bust adjustment. In order to have the coat fit properly, I had to move the buttons more towards the center that I would have liked. This means that the storm flaps don't cover the top buttons completely like they should, and when the neck clasp is not fastened, there is a little bubble of fabric. Ah well! If I were to make this again, I would add length to the collar so that it will close when the coat is buttoned, and I might even add a small FBA to give a more room over the chest. It's unclear to me whether I had these problems because I should have sized up, or because the pattern wasn't designed to button closed.

Pretty much all of the versions made by other bloggers that I truly admire mentioned liberal use of fusible interfacing-- block-fusing large portions of the coat. I went with this, and the entire coat is block fused with a high quality lightweight interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply. The front panels are fused with light weft interfacing, and the collar, collar stand, and lapels are tailored with fusible horsehair canvas using this technique which I previously made a tutorial for.

My biggest disappointment is that my interfacing seems not to like this fabric. There are places on the coat where the interfacing is "bubbling." This is caused by the interfacing separating from the fabric, and this is sometimes visible on the surface. I've gone back to some of the places and tried to get the interfacing to adhere better with plenty of steam and pressure, but it doesn't seem to work. Either I didn't do a good job when I first applied the interfacing, or it just doesn't stick as well to this fabric as it has to past coating projects.

Using fusible might have been a mistake in this project, in retrospect. The pattern did say to use a sew-in interfacing, and of course I ignored this advice. A well-loved trench coat has to take a certain amount of abuse... theoretically it will get wet on a regular basis, and the light color will require more frequent washing. Hopefully the lack of adhesion doesn't get so bad that it ruins the look of the coat.

I couldn't find anyone who talked about pad-stitching a lapel on a smooth surface fabric like twill, but actually, I think I probably could have done it after working with this fabric, it is surprisingly forgiving. Next time I sew a trench, I might give this a try rather than risking the fusible. But I do really like the drape the fusible gives the fabric, so I'm a bit torn on this point.

Anyway, I also added lots of other fun details. The throat latch is attached with rivets. The collar stand and the belt are supported with channel stitching. There's a gold hanging chain. The buttons are real horn (ebay!), and the button holes are keyhole buttonholes. Thankfully my sewing machine LOVED sewing buttonholes on this twill, since I had to make 16 of them!

The lining is a Burberry-esque cotton plaid from an Etsy shop in the UK. I looked at SO MANY plaids, but the fact is, the Burberry design is sort of brilliant for a khaki color palette, really-- black and white with a touch of red, on a khaki base. I figure people can wonder... is it, or is it not a Burberry? The sleeve lining is beige rayon bemberg, to allow the coat to slip on and off easily.

And to avoid any confusion, I've made a special Unlikely tag for this coat. The tag is printed on my Etsy printer, a Canon Pixma, and it uses pigment ink for its black ink. I used the freezer-paper method to print the design on plain muslin. Much cooler than the Burberry knight, IMHO.

Another huge feature of the trench coat is its pockets. McCalls 5525 has an absurdly small pocket tucked into the front princess seam.  I ignored this pocket arrangement, and made single welt pockets with a button closure, which is the most common pocket used in Burberry trenches. I really like this type of pocket on a coat because it can be placed in the most comfortable place, at just the right angle, and there is plenty of room to make the pocket bags as big as is desired.

My pockets are HUGE. Funny story-- for a recent event I had to attend, I had forgotten the garnish for the dessert I had contributed. I walked past everyone in the reception hall with a giant can of whipped cream in my pocket. That's how big these pockets are! They have also proved to be vastly useful when out with the kids since I regularly end up carrying all sorts of random things like sneakers, wads of tissues, and the odd rock. I'm sure that's what the makers of the trench coat had in mind.

Not only are they huge, they are also pass-through pockets... there is a welt opening inside of the pocket that leads to the interior pocket. The interior pocket is also huge... I made it large enough to hold an iPad or a sketch book (two common things I'm often found carrying...). There are button closures so that it doesn't gape open when it is empty.

This trench has an absurd number of interior pockets. I sort of went a bit crazy- I guess I had secret agents on my mind. There are two zippered chest pockets (one on each side) and two zippered pockets in the lining, one at an angle and one horizontal. I'm REALLY good at making zippered pockets by now!

The back kick pleat was a bit of a struggle for me. I avoid hand sewing whenever possible, so I sought out directions on finishing a lined pleat by machine, and I thought I had it all worked out. It might have been just a bit wonky. Then I waterproofed the coat and let it hang dry, and after that it was just horrible looking, it looked like I was hiding a tail! I'm guessing the weight of being wet caused the twill to stretch more than the lining. I had to undo it all, and re-do it by hand so that it hung properly. Unfortunately I didn't manage to miter the pleat corners... can't win them all!

I went for a real belt buckle and grommets. I'm glad I went with the grommets... I actually looked into sewing eyelets, and apparently this is one thing my machine just doesn't do! I'm sort of shocked about that, it seems like a simple function for a machine that sews automatic buttonholes, and more useful than all those fancy stitches I never use. Seriously, if any of you know of a way to make a Janome 8077 sew an eyelet, I want to know, I've researched it and tried all sorts of hacks and I haven't come up with anything other than doing it manually, which is rather difficult. But the grommets are super simple once you get the hang of it. I ordered the grommets from Pacific Trimming, and the grommet setting tool from Ebay.

After wearing the coat for awhile now, I sort of see why everyone ties their trenches rather than actually make use of the buckle-- it is faster and more adjustable than buckling a buckle. And... if you belt is long enough to tie, you have to pull all that excess through the buckle, which is even more annoying. So the buckle mostly just hangs around, occasionally banging on things that I walk past. As much as I love the polished look of the belt buckle, I might skip it on future trenches!

I just had to do the classic tartan-on-the-bias under collar. The under collar and collar stand are supported by horse hair canvas so that they won't get floppy with time. Or at least, I hope so.

When the trench was totally done, I waterproofed it in Nikwax Cotton Proof. I just measured out the right proportions in a big tub (actually, an empty fabric storage bin!), and dumped my coat in. I followed the directions for soaking and hand-agitation. Since it was so incredibly heavy when wet, I put it in the washer for a spin cycle to wring it out, then hung it to dry. It seems to have worked, water beads on the surface! But it is really only "shower" proof, the water will sink in if left for any length of time. Better than nothing though.

Well, that's about it! It took me SO LONG to finish this project. I've been at this for months. I didn't take it very seriously when other bloggers talked about what a big project their trenches were, but now I have to agree! The project was also dragged out by the fact that I was doing this during a very busy time and I was snatching an hour here and 30 minutes there. But I think it is well worth it, I love wearing it, it makes me smile at a nice cool rainy day!

Can you imagine, I'm already planning my next trench? Yes I am! I'm in the collecting materials phase of the project. While I love this trench, it is a bit dramatic... it is very heavy and sort of on the long side, and I feel very conspicuous wearing such a light color. My next trench will be lighter weight-- I'll lay off the interfacing, probably leave it unlined, and shorter (mid thigh). It will definitely be a darker color. I also really want the classic raglan sleeve trench... and that will require some pattern alteration!

Speaking of material gathering... I have FINALLY found a true showerproof cotton fabric. After much searching, I came across Ventile and Etaproof fabrics. I was unable to obtain Ventile (the UK outfitter refused to ship to the US, and the UK manufacturer didn't respond to my inquiries) but a German outdoor store, Extremtextile in Dresden, was perfectly willing to ship 3 yards of EtaProof, which is made in Sweden. I'm excited about my EtaProof, but it might be years before this project actually happens!

Until then, expect to see lots of khaki around here!